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<generator>Blogsmith http://www.blogsmith.com/</generator><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[You do realize that to make a grayscale image in Photoshot, you can do Image -> Adjustments -> Desaturate, right?]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Pieter]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[man you are sooooooo spoiled. Who's your daddy?]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Michael Tseng]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[http://www.ishkur.com/captions/index.php?num=4<br><br>Sorry, just couldn't resist.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Trachalio]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Pieter: There is nothing wrong with the way the author suggested how to do desaturate an image. Everyone has their personal method and that doesnt make it wrong. You do realize that your method isnt the easiest, RIGHT? (ctrl + shift + U)]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[decompyler]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[any way to get a briefer excerpt in to the RSS feed? All those images are nice--in the full post....]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[the Other michael]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Interesting anaglyphs. Most of them show greater disparity of the image at greater distances (Eg. the cell phone thing with buildings in the background is very strong) This shouldn't happen if the image pairs were shot by parallel optical systems (as you suggest the orientation of the camera on the second shot should be).  However, you will notice that human eyes will not remain parallel when looking at close objects - they tend to converge on the object in focus - resulting in a more complicated disparity relationship which clearly  the brain is able to deal with and may prefer. These non-parallel or converged pairs that you select as optimum may even be needed to match what the brain-eye system expects when looking at the images within arms length.  Cool.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[twobits]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Thanks so much for sharing all this info.  Can't wait to try it myself.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Amy]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[...I'd do this with two of those boxy disposable camera stuck together side by side and reinforced with lollypop sticks (yay, for low-tech superglue).<br><br>Then try really hard to press the buttons at the same time for those action shots.<br><br>Scanner and Photoshop 2.5, sorted.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Modesty B Catt]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm?terms=10096&cartLogFrom=Search<br><br>]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Dan Gapinski]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[twobits, think of it like your screen was a window--if your eyes are focusing on the screen, then if there's no displacement between the two halves of the 3D image of an object, it will look like it's right up against the "window" (for the same reason that 2D images look like they're the same distance from you as the monitor they're displayed on), while things that are further apart will either look further in the distance or like they're popping out of the window, depending on whether the red half of the image is to the left or the right of the cyan half.<br><br>BTW, I have a bunch of 3D images I've made on my webpage at http://www.jessemazer.com/3Dphotos.html , including some scenes from DVDs I converted to 3D (at http://www.jessemazer.com/3Dphotos.html#movies ) by taking nearby frames in scenes where the camera was panning sideways and using them as the left eye/right eye parts of a single 3D image.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Jesse]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Oh yeah, and I should also mention you can get a free pair of 3D glasses by sending a self-addressed stamped envelope to this company:<br><br>http://www.rainbowsymphony.com/freestuff<br><br>Just make sure you include a note asking for red/cyan glasses, since they have other kinds.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Jesse]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[It's also possible to just train your eyes to focus in such a way that two adjacent images are brought together. This works with ordinary photographs, film or digital, that you don't have to manipulate in any way except placing them next to each other. Of course, they have to be photographed correctly first. But that's fairly easy to do... just remember that you're simulating two eyes with the camera. Take the two photos a few inches apart to simulate normal human vision, or farther apart to imagine how a giant might see things, which is useful if you want a 3-D shot of a landscape far away.<br><br>I took some photos from the south rim of the Grand Canyon where I took the one shot, moved maybe 10 meters to the side, and took another shot. Stick the pictures next to each other, and have your eyes bring a common object together, and you've got a 3-D image. A stereoscope can help if your eyes aren't focusing correctly.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Adam Villani]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[For 3d within AE, we use an adjustment layer with the following effects.  3D Glasses, set to Red/Blue LR, and choose your left/right layered photos appropriately.  Then also add to your adjustment layer, Shift Channels, shift, Green to Blue.  This makes your image grey scale, except for the red channel but minimizes ghosting.<br><br>Alternatively, learn to cross your eyes for cross eye 3D.<br><br>Also, I prefer to not use regular cameras and use a Stereo 3D camera from the 50s, called a Realist.  It has a unique look and is more fun.  Here's a link to a recent roll I shot.<br><br>http://www.3dmation.com/images/stereo_photos/stereo_082104/cross/index.htm<br><br>Barry]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Barry Berman]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Oh, forgot to add, you need to also rectify your photos.  Often times there will be a vertical offset between your left and right exposure, and that's confusing for your brain to resolve.  You should align the features to make it easier for your brain.  Many pictures above need to be rectified.<br><br>Barry]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Barry Berman]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[If you have a machinist friend, you can get him or her to make a simple bracket that fits on top of your tripod and under your camera; flip it to the left to take the first shot, then to the right for the second, and you'll always get the exact same parallax distance.<br><br>All it takes is two metal plates, four "arms", eight screws to hold the arms to the edegs of the plates, and a suitable screw to hold the camera to the top plate.  The bottom plate should be drilled and tapped for the tripod screw.  The whole thing when assembled becomes a parallelogram when viewed from the front or back.<br><br>]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Morely]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Using Photoshop, I just put elements in their own layer, then shifted the blue and red channels. The mountain picture is a much than the somewhat botched capitol building picture.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Jim Lewis]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=callipygian]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Grfnbrg]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Wouldn't it be easier just to use a stereo film camera and scan it in?  My wife has one from http://www.3dstereo.com/ .  They're cheap and fun if a bit bulky.  I might try this on some of her photos.<br><br>David]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[davidmin]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[have you tried printing your own glasses with clear A4 slides for an incjet printer? What exact colors would be best (exact red and cyan?)]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[gummih]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Is it really necessary to take two photos?  Cant you just take one picture and crop off a little of the left side for one eye and crop off a little of the right side for the other eye?]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Ben]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Cropping the same photo differently wouldn't work--the 3D effect comes from the fact that you have two images of the same scene from different perspectives, so if there's a tree in the background next to a person's head in the foreground in one image, in the other image the person's head may be partly blocking that same tree because the camera's line-of-sight was a little different. These sorts of differences in what your two eyes see are how your brain interprets depth.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Jesse]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Interesting that a thread started on this subject. A couple of weeks ago, I started pondering the same idea. I too had found the Mars Rover images and decided to create a full screen 360 degree panoramic of them. Of course, that immediately got me thinking about whether the same thing could be accomplished with one image. [link to QTVR pano: http://homepage.mac.com/morps/blogwavestudio/LH20040318210020/LHA20040811064545/index.html]<br><br>I started Googling around and really couldn't find anything. So I started mucking around in Photoshop.  I created a Photoshop action that would create an anaglyph from a single image. It's not perfect, but it does work (see link at bottom of paragraph). After running the action, you do need to nudge the Channels a bit. But, for a poorman's anaglyph creator, I think it does a decent job. If any of you try it, lemme know what ya think. [Link to anaglyph sample and action: http://homepage.mac.com/morps/blogwavestudio/LH20040318210020/LHA20040818071633/index.html]]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Morps]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA["Humans over time have evolved with many capabilities which offer an advantage over non-humans". True, but binocular vision is not one of them. This capability is shared among humans and non-humans alike.<br><br>But the article itself is very interesting, nevertheless.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[William]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Interesting thread this, full of goodies I shall have to link to... Anyway, it is possible to put the raw stereo pairs from the Mars Rovers together to create near-true-color stereo pictures. A friend of mine who works at the Adler Planetarium in Chicago worked out a scheme for doing this, and we put them up at http://astro.uchicago.edu/cosmus/projects/marsstereo<br>You'll find the pictures there in both anaglyph (i.e. use red-cyan or red-blue glasses) and side-by-side format (a.k.a. twinview). The latter is used for displaying them using two projectors and polarized lenses (see http://www.geowall.org) and for printing on Holmes cards.<br><br>You'll also find stereo pictures from various observatories around the country at the same site, but they're in twinview format<br>http://astro.uchicago.edu/cosmus/projects.html#stereopix<br>These were taken with a single digital camera and a bar, or two digital cameras synchronized with a single click, and then aligned with cheap ($100) software called Pokescope (http://www.pokescope.com). You can align, crop, and rotate stereo pairs with Pokescope, as well as effortlessly switch between anaglyph and twinview. I'd be curious to know if it actually does more than Callipygian.<br>]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[dinoj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Want to display your stereo pairs without anaglyph glasses? Check out the Wiggle Stereoscopic Viewer: http://wiggle.sourceforge.net/ . Be sure to crawl around the samples directory to see more: http://wiggle.sourceforge.net/samples/ . The download includes an html page that aligns your images and outputs the required html to embed the flash applet.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Forrest O.]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[The time for space trick was demonstrated by Jim Gasperini in animated GIF...<br>http://www.well.com/user/jimg/stereo/stereo_list2.html<br><br>Using Flash to transition between them was my idea, see Old Stone Gate on that page. <br><br>Wiggle is very cool but doesn't follow the "duh" convention of using mouseleft-mouseright to move the 'camera' and blend the images. The image should oscillate unless the user mouses into it.<br><br>When using the Flash technique, it's best to take 3 pictures (left, right, center) and blend between those. Unless you also want to do up-down.<br><br>Come on Wiggle!<br><br>-chris]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Lowery]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[I take it back, it does support mouse look, in a 'mode' you can enter by clicking on the image. the 'focal length' idea is very useful. I'd like to see this UI for Wiggle:<br><br>up-down = focal length <br>left-right = mouse look<br>click = pause/unpause<br>double-click = modes/menu<br><br>Optimised color anaglyph is terrific, but most people don't have red-blue cardboard 3D glasses. It's almost an icon of geekness. For intuitive 3D impact, a stronger Wiggle can change the web.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Lowery]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[In recent years the majority of 3D glasses have<br>shifted from RED/BLUE to RED/CYAN, which facilitates seeing the full color spectrum better. This greatly improves skin tones. Paper<br>glasses have several serious shortcomings, the<br>obvious is that they get mangled in a few days!<br>They can't be cleaned easily, but less well<br>known is the fact that the red filter tends to<br>shift focus perception, due to it's different place in the spectrum. (Wave length in nm's)<br>With plastic glasses, it is possible to slightly correct this stressful mismatch with <br>a minimal diopter correction. When this is done the eyes of the average person can relax and<br>view for extended periods in comfort. A popular<br>line of "professional grade" plastic glasses,<br>called Anachrome provides glasses, so enhanced.<br>They also have a set of processing and shooting<br>protocols which help to make better color<br>anaglyphs. A key feature of these is the <br>advice to allways use less than human eye<br>seperation, (stereo base) in shooting or rendering CGI for stereo. The norm is about 1/2<br>the typical. This allows the overlaid images to partially "self-mask". In other words only a<br>very few pixels are showing the "carrier color"<br>which makes the pesky red outlines on typical anaglyphs. There are hundreds of image examples<br>on the website for these glasses and technique.<br>which is www.anachrome.com. Anachrome images<br>are so closely overlaid that most can be posted small on line as a regular color picture. When<br>a viewer wants to see the 3D detail better they <br>simply open the image to full size. There is a<br>directory of other sights that use the method in varying degrees with links. The site also<br>provides some tips and instructions toward<br>making broader spectrum, more saturadated<br>color anaglyphs with a series of corrective steps. To some extent, these more colorful <br>type of anaglyphs are being refered to as<br>"3D Anachromes", or A3D images.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Allan Silliphant]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Thanks for featuring my "Callipygian 3D" software.<br><br>I'm working on a MUCH IMPROVED version, and I'd welcome any suggestions you may have.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert Swirsky]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[It's been my hobby to take 3-D photos for years and years.  Anaglyph is okay, and one of the few techniques that's easy to post on the web, (although I'm the only person I know with the required glasses,) but I vastly prefer using plain old photographs and a viewer like the ViewMagic, which can be obtained from a few places, like:  http://www.berezin.com/3d/ViewMagic.htm<br><br>These have excellent optics (front-surface mirrors,) and are simple, robust, and easy to use.  I've had mine since you bought them direct from the original inventor.<br><br>All you do to make 3-D pictures is to take two photos from different angles with any camera, and then place one photograph 4 inches above the other (I tape them to a piece of paper, or just set 'em on a table.)  You get stunning, photographic-quality images *in full color.*<br><br>Nothing adds interest and depth to your pictures like 3-D does.  Details you'd never notice pop out at you.  And you can produce effects you'd never be able to see with the naked eye.  I have pictures of Mt. St. Helens taken from about 5 miles away.  I moved at least 100 yards between taking pictures, and you can see the whole 3-D shape of the mountain and the crater.  Really amazing stuff, and recommended for anyone who is a photo nut.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Eliasen]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[good post.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[amogh]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[nice post.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[amogh]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Another possibilty to consider is Picture Window Pro 3.5 (http://www.dl-c.com/Temp/) where they describe their capabilities as:<br>"Picture Window's stereo transformation lets you prepare pairs of stereo photographs for viewing, either with red/blue colored glasses or with a standard side-by-side stereo viewer. The horizontal and vertical offsets between the two images can be adjusted for the best viewing while previewing the results on the screen."<br><br>P.S. I have taken stereo images, mostly with a Stereo Realist camera, since around 1970. You get spectacular images if you compose the picture correctly.<br>]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Douglas Hoyt]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[I'm attempting this process with Photoshop and I am having no success. I think I lose it when I try to paste the right image onto the left/blue image. My image just goes back to being a grayscale image. No blue and/or red. What am I doing wrong?]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[nate lucas]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[wallawallawalla]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[elena]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Here is a simple method to do color anaglyphs in Photo Shop 6.5:<br>Open the two oictures side by side. Look at them<br>with eyes in CROSS-Viewing mode. If they don't form a comfortable stereo image, reverse their positions. Once you can see stereo, change each with AUTO LEVEL FUNCTION. 95% of the time the image will then look better. Next check the<br>RELATIVE MAGNIFICATION of the two images by over-laying them in LAYERS.(this is in the Windows column) In the pull-down menu "normal"<br>will be the default, use p.down menu to change to SCREEN. (This only works when two images are actually laying one on the other. If only one layer SCREEN cannot be selected.)<br>Move the right hand image over the left and try to find any difference in SIZE or ROTATION.<br>Correct the difference by altering the upper<br>image back at its source. You can both rotate<br>a few tens of a degree or more, and change size.<br>By trial and error get them to overlay as good as possible. This will greatly reduce ghosting later. Now go to history and remove the overlay.<br>Now, use the CURVES function in the Image/adjustment column. Remove all RED from the image on your left (which is actually the RIGHT camera view) then using CURVES remove GREEN, then BLUE from the image on your RIGHT<br>(which is ACTUALLY the LEFT camera image).<br>Slide the CYAN image onto the RED image. Move it<br>around until the MAIN SUBJECT is in  register.<br>right to the pixel ! (checked by zooming in)<br>at the contrastiest line of demarkation you see.<br>The go over to the LAYER column and go down to <br>FLATTEN IMAGE. DO IT. then Crop! Then add<br>a little extra chroma to countact the color loses filters induce. That is a basic Anachrome,<br>done to level one standards.<br>Allan Silliphant<br>Anachrome 3D Group<br> <br>]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Allan Silliphant]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Here is a simple method to do color anaglyphs in Photo Shop 6.5 or 7.0 :<br>Open the two pictures side by side. Look at them<br>with eyes in CROSS-Viewing mode. If they don't form a comfortable stereo image, reverse their positions. Once you can see stereo, change each with AUTO LEVEL FUNCTION. (95% of the time the image will then look better). Next, check the<br>RELATIVE MAGNIFICATION of the two images by over-laying them in LAYERS.(this is in the Windows column) In the pull-down menu "normal"<br>will be the default, use p.down menu to change to SCREEN. (This only works when two images are actually laying one on the other. If only one layer, SCREEN cannot be selected.)<br>Move the right hand image over the left and try to find any difference in SIZE or ROTATION.<br>Correct the difference by altering the upper<br>image back at its source. You can both rotate<br>a few tens of a degree or more, and change size.<br>By trial and error get them to overlay as good as possible. This will greatly reduce ghosting later. Now, go to history and remove the overlay.<br>Now, use the CURVES function in the Image/adjustment column. Remove all RED from the image on your left (which is actually the RIGHT camera view) then using CURVES remove GREEN, then BLUE from the image on your RIGHT<br>(which is ACTUALLY the LEFT camera image).<br>Slide the CYAN image onto the RED image. Move it<br>around until the MAIN SUBJECT is in  register,<br>right to the pixel ! (checked by zooming in)<br>at the contrastiest line of demarkation you see.<br>Then, go over to the LAYER column and go down to <br>FLATTEN IMAGE. DO IT. then Crop! Then add<br>a little extra chroma to countact the color losses, filters induce. That is a basic ANACHROME, digital anaglyph,<br>done to LEVEL ONE standards.<br>Allan Silliphant<br>Anachrome 3D Group<br> <br>]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Allan Silliphant]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[I believe that those "wiggling" gif or flash images are a good way to simply PREVIEW the stereo effect. They allow viewers to see the relation between near and far objects without having to use 3D glasses or perform eyeball tricks. I would not go so far as to call them actual stereo images. They are only previews, presented as flickering monoscopic images. For true stereoscopic effect, both left and right images need to be presented simultaneously to both eyes; or at least fast enough that the brain can merge the two images. Let's not confuse the public any more by trying to convince them that "wiggles" or "t-f-s" are stereo images - they are only previews.]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Maddy]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[cross-eyed or parallel (i prefer the latter after years of "magic eye" stereograms, others prefer cross-eyed) images are arguably the easiest to make. take two pictures, then copy them into either side of the same image. or skip that step and put them next to each other on a web page. <br><br>i've done parallel 3-D photography of a still subject (a messy room) with a *film* camera, simply stand as still as possible and take a picture with either eye, trying to keep the camera as level as possible each time.<br><br>though this method is perhaps not as solid, it does address the "human focusing" problem that twobits mentioned earlier.<br><br>dunno why you would need special software to create anaglylphs. why can't you use Photoshop's channels feature? basically, activate only the red channel and paste in the left image, then activate only the blue and green channels and paste in the right channel. with all channels active, the result should be an anaglyph. (an inverse of this method is also useful for convering anaglyphs back into two images for use as parallel/cross-eyed pairs.)]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[romulus]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[I had my comic book glasses ready and must say these look really good.  The robot in the leaves is kinda cute ;-).  Ana]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Ana]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Dude you have like every cool gadget and gizmo that exists!  2-3 Aibo's ... that 80s robot, a segway, AND a roomba!!! WHOOSH!!!!!<br><br>You live in the future!  All I have is this lousy G5 :)<br><br>Worldpeace,<br>Ben]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Benny]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Do you know where can we purchase 3D posters?<br><br>Zvi]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Zvi Oren]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[RE: Do you know where can we purchase 3D posters?<br>here:<br>http://www.gengotti.it]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Lippo lippi]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[Photos 3D]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[JORGE LUIZ]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[does anyone know how to make 3D illustrations?]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Vin]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Comments on How-To Tuesday: Make 3-D photos]]></title><link>http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.engadget.com/2004/08/24/how-to-tuesday-make-3-d-photos/</guid><description><![CDATA[I found this whole gallery of 3D images that were made from a train window.  http://www.hardtoremember.org/train/index.php?mode=anaglyph]]></description><dc:creator><![CDATA[Sarah]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Dec 19th 2005 2:26AM</pubDate></item></channel></rss>